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Comments on 8554 Power

>>Anyone out there know where I can find an AC adapter for a CL57sx?  Or, does anyone know if any of IBM's other laptops used the same AC adapter?

   FAIK the CL57SX uses a unique AC-Adapter which hasn't been used anywhere else. Don't forget that the CL57 is a PS/55 machine originally - designed and built for domestic japanese market only.

>The DC input plug looks like that:
  /--------------\
 /  HHH   HHH     \ = GND   -  CC
 |                |
 |     HHH   HHH  | = Minus -  Plus
 | |||            | = Code
 +----------------+
 CC   = 17.5VDC 1.2A
 Plus = 20.0VDC 3.0A
The plug requires some creativity .... 

  GND is "protective GND" - means there is a zero Ohms resistance between this pin and the third pin on the power supply. "Minus" is the DC GND return for "Plus" and "CC" (Battery Charger Voltage).

"Code" is a hole in the plug, into which a plastic pin goes to avoid accidentially plugging it upside down (which is more than unlikely due to the form of the plug already ...)

If the voltages are not correct:
1. Unplug the AC adapter from the outlet and leave it for a few minutes.
2. Plug the AC adapter into the ac outlet.
3. Measure the output voltages of the AC adapter.
4. If the voltages are still not correct, replace the AC adapter.

If the voltages are OK
Plug the cable into the computer and try the failing operation again.
If the problem still remains, replace the voltage converter. 
If the problem disappeared, suspect the installation and continuity of the AC adapter cable.

Peter says:
   Batteries: in an act of sheer violence I broke one apart. Not too difficult. Cut with a sharp knife at the top about 1.5 mm deep and around the top cover. You see the slight outline when looking closer. It is the part where the black and yellow decal is sticking upon.
   Then gently use a flat chisel (or a sharp small screwdriver) to get it open at one corner without totally breaking it. Make sure you don't damage the sides, front and rear - you will need that afterwards. The top cover is glued sparsely along the outline but also with a 3 x 3 cm pad of double glue tape (carpet tape) onto the cells. Hrrmmm.

Inside are
- 10 NiMh cells, 1.2V each, 16mm diameter / 43mm lenght (4/5A IIRC)
- the thermal sensor (NTC + diode + resistor in a shrink rubber tube)
- the overtemp switch (KLIXON 4MM75A) between cells 4 and 5
- an insulation piece of cardboard (slightly formed)
- some wires

   The cells are industrial standard with sheetmetal contacts. These are nickel-plated and hard to solder. They are usually point-welded, but soldering works as well if you roughen the surfaces with a piece of sandpaper. Cells are similar to NH GP 181AFH-1Z (1.810 mAh / 1.2V / 4/5A), which cost about 5.75 Euro per one at Reichelt in Germany - according to an old 2004-catalogue. You could take the NH GP 121AAM-1Z as well (for 2.50 Euro), but these offer 1.100 mAh only and are a tad thinner in diameter. Individual mileage may vary and I think they came cheaper and with various sources to pick from.

   Have taken pictures from the crap-out. Maybe I'll buy 10 cells to revive at least one battery, but before I need to solve the keyboard problem. Should be possible. I'd even found a solution with that silly DS1287 ... 

8554 on Gel Cells
Sam Blinkhorn
  Hi Gary, I did the same thing on my son's TP755c, gutted the dead battery pack, which was WAY too expensive to repack, then soldered a couple of wires to the inside of the empty pack with spade connectors on them.
  Connected up to a 7ah 12v gel battery, and powered on with some trepidation, I must  admit..... presto ! worked like a charm. Now he can use it when we have a (frequent) power outage.
  BTW the gel cell cost $25 with an included plugpack charger/regulator, the replacement NiHi batteries would have cost over $150 ! Admittedly a neater solution, just way too dear.

Al Savage
   You want to be careful using that method.  The inverter that is powered from those batteries is expecting *very clean* power.  If you run a line-powered DC supply there, be sure an include a decent sized battery to act as a filter, even if the battery is not mounted in the unit anymore.  Don't run it on an AC->DC supply alone.

Smokey Behr
   Another possibility is to use a couple of monster size capacitors, you know, the ones about the size of beer cans. They're cheap and plentiful at electronics surplus stores, or you could shell out the big bucks and go to a car audio store that caters to the "Bump N Thump" crowd.

  Terminal (V dc)
     (+)   +12 to +18
    ( T )  Thermal Detection
    ( - )  Ground

If < +12v, the pack is discharged or defective.
If > +12v, go to the next step.

2. Using a low-power ohm meter, measure the resistance between (T) and (-). The resistance must be 500 ohms to 20 kilohms. If the resistance is out of range, replace the battery pack.